Leaving the UK on Tuesday 10th March for one of our ‘mega-trips’ touring New Zealand seemed a bit like a step into the unknown. The insurance company said that we had to fly – the UK Government wasn’t saying that we should not … so off we went…. With the COVID-19 pandemic spreading, it certainly turned out to be a ‘holiday with a difference’! This is my ‘Diary of the Lockdown’ …
Friday 13th March 2020 – Arrived in Auckland, New Zealand. Should have been a portent, shouldn’t it?!! The start of a trip that was going to turn out to be nothing like we expected. Things moved quickly from then onwards….
Saturday 14th March: Chatted to a tour guide with an American group who was talking about concerns over their group returning to the USA, would have to self-isolate & local guides throughout NZ being laid-off… The ‘season’ had finished, she said.
Sunday 15th March: Jacinda Ardern, the New Zealand Prime Minister, announced that any new arrivals to the country would have to go into 14 days self-isolation….
Wednesday 18th March: Kiwi’s being ‘called home’… talk of USA/Canadian border being closed…. uncertainty over flight home already ….
Thursday 19th March: Motel booking for Saturday night is cancelled due to member of staff contracting COVID-19 virus…. so needed to find an alternative. The B&B lady wanted to know if we’d been in self-isolation …..
Friday 20th March: RHS at home are cancelling their garden shows ….. trying to contact travel company about our flights home….
Saturday 21st March: First time experiencing ‘tracing details’ at restaurant in evening. Had to give our names, contact details & country of origin – new regulations enforced!
Sunday 22nd March: Arrived in Akaroa, on the Banks Peninsula, south of Christchurch….. An absolutely beautiful place, which we planned to spend 2 nights in…
Monday 23rd March: Emirates flights cancelled ….. & then reinstated by the evening ……. News announced that NZ would be in ‘total lockdown’ in 48 hours time…. Our motel owner, Murray & his wife Fliss, offered us a weekly rental – saying ‘Don’t worry. We’ll sort you out’. Change was already apparent that evening. Restaurants could now only offer take-aways – by Wednesday evening they would be closed. Eating blue cod fish & chips sat on our balcony, glass of NZ Sauvignon Blanc in hand, gazing at ‘our view’ across the bay/harbour, the prospect of lockdown here wasn’t so bad at all!
Tuesday 24th March: Decision time! Wherever we were sleeping at 2359 on Wednesday 25th March was where we had to spend our time for the next 4 weeks…. So we decided to stay in Akaroa….. Fliss & Murray gave us a hot plate, saucepan & an electric frying pan – in addition to the microwave & toaster… So this was what I’d got to cook with & feed us for the next month at least. We moved upstairs, where there was a ‘better view’, & went shopping at the local ‘Four Square’ supermarket (just at the back of us) to stock up on supplies. The local Policewoman was already out supervising ‘the queue’, ensuring that we kept ‘social distancing’ & there was a ‘one in – one out’ policy. Then a visit to the local butchers was in order – the bakery had already closed….. Dinner was another take-away – half-price! Really lovely beef fillet with 2 types of potato dauphinoise… with salad & chips ‘thrown in’ for free. Anything not sold would have to be thrown away – what a waste!
Wednesday 25th March: Shock news at the butchers this morning – he has to close! So, that meant a ‘stock up’ ….. We only have a small freezer compartment in our fridge so there had to be some careful ‘packing & stacking’ going on. Our daily walks are going to be an important part of this ‘Level 4 Lockdown’ life – thankfully, there is a lot to explore in the local area with a number of nature reserves & community forests & paths – and, there is a lovely garden to study from our balcony …..
That evening saw the first ‘get together’ of the Refugees – 11 Brits & a German couple – all sat round in the car park, social distancing obviously. Coffee, beer or wine? – all depended on what you brought down with you! A great way to introduce us all to each other – Fliss & Murray were very good at this sort of thing! Of course, everyone was comparing notes about flights, their trips so far etc …. what was ‘worrying’ was the sheer number of (ex)teachers in the group. We get everywhere!
Thursday 26th March: 1st day of Lockdown…. The sun was shining, & the bay looked stunning! We had to register with the British Counsel so that they knew how many Brits were now effectively ‘stranded’ abroad. The supermarket staff were now wearing masks & gloves, but we didn’t have to…. & only 1 person allowed per aisle…. Social distancing stickers appeared on the floor a few weeks later … The manager, & his electrician, refurbished the store later on (an overnight job in reality!) – moving the tills around & putting up screens etc. All to keep the staff ‘safe’. They were very friendly & worked non-stop – shelves couldn’t be refilled quickly enough at times it seemed. The range was limited & you were never quite sure what they’d have in, but it worked! I did also manage to arrange an online delivery of salmon from the local salmon farm – well, needs must!
So, what were the rules for Level 4 Lockdown in NZ? The only businesses allowed to be open were supermarkets, pharmacies & hardware shops (providing they were the sole providers of something essential for farmers etc). To access the pharmacy, well, you couldn’t really. There was a plastic screen behind the door with a square cut out to speak through. The assistant went & got anything you wanted – you didn’t step inside! The only people allowed to drive were key workers & just to get to work itself. There was no public transport. The ferries between the 2 islands were now for freight only – so there was no way of getting to Auckland airport (& home) until there were flights from Christchurch ….. &, you were allowed to drive to the airport! The clear message was to ‘Stay in your bubble’ – which meant your ‘immediate household’. Campsites, libraries, cinemas etc were all closed – so many tourists found themselves with campervans that they couldn’t really use; we had 7 people affected like this in our motel ‘bubble’.
So, how did we cope with the next 34 days…? Well, we had an absolutely brilliant time really! Daily exercise was encouraged – which meant walking, cycling, jogging/running….. so, walking/hiking for us! The hills started just after one road inland from us, so everything was ‘up’ after that. We went walking almost every single day as the weather was kind to us – blue skies, blue water, mountains & trees are wonderful for the soul. Found some amazing ‘wildlife’ on one of our favourite walks all round the Childrens Bay headland …
The scenery was stunning wherever we hiked – the views vast & uplifting… or quiet & reflective by a waterfall in a dell.
We met lots of locals, & other ‘refugees’ on our walks – often the same people on a regular basis! You got quite used to crossing the road as you approached other people, smiling, waving & saying ‘hello’, catching up on the latest state of play with disappearing flights… & how locals were coping with home schooling…
Les Mills put classes on the main TV channel 3 days a week, so I managed to do some ‘Body Balance’ … as well as trying to keep up with our Tai Chi…
&, of course, we celebrated my birthday… with the new ‘gang’, all sat socially distancing in the motel car park… Fliss made me a Pimms Cake, & we provided the prosecco… We had ‘lost’ one couple by then – they’d managed to get to friends in Christchurch to stay with them, but were then stuck & unable to get to Wellington….
The 2 young lads were the next to leave – via LA to Heathrow… Antje & Jorg from Germany were on a repatriation flight organised by their Government, which was then cancelled by the NZ Government in order to protect their borders & citizens. After much re-negotiation these flights were reinstated & so they were able to get home. Which left 7 Brits …..
Fliss & Murray were very good to us all, knocking on your door if they hadn’t seen you for a couple of days to check that you were alright.. or to announce that there was roast meat, potatoes & gravy ready…. or bringing you cheese scones, apple cake etc. An amazing couple! At least once a week there was ‘BYO coffee/wine’ in the car park – a socially distanced get together. So we benefited from a lovely, friendly, supportive community of people as well – so much fun & laughter!
There were limited TV channels available, so we did an awful lot of reading. Still got the latest Hilary Mantel novel to relish… kept on saving it for ‘the airport/flight’ ….! We do like to support local business both at home & whilst on our travels, so as well as supporting the local salmon farm, we also felt that it was our duty to support the NZ wine industry as well… LOL… A glass of NZ Sauvignon Blanc sat on your balcony, taking in the view, is a wonderful way to relax.
All good things have to come to an end, or so they say, & that was true of our time in Akaroa. The ‘flight home’ situation was getting worse – routes were appearing & disappearing on a daily basis, & even during the day! Emirates kept on postponing when they were going to start flying again. Contacting your insurance/travel/car rental company/airline proved exhausting & exasperating, particularly when you are told that there is a 4-6 week wait for an email reply… & yes, we’re still waiting for those! Gradually our little band of Brits dwindled, until there were just us 2 left. Only one got home on a British Government repatriation flight – there were 5 planes initially for 10,000 Brits in NZ …. – the rest of us went ‘commercial’.. & that’s another tale in itself! We left the day that NZ went down to ‘Level 3 Lockdown’… so missed out on the chance to have another take away!
Yes, we miss our time in Akaroa – although, we are also glad to be back home – & are looking forward to getting back to NZ, & Akaroa specifically, to meet up with Fliss & Murray again, do some more hiking in the area, be a ‘tourist’ & to actually complete our planned trip around the South & North Islands! So as they say in NZ: Stay safe in your bubble. Kia Kaha (stay strong).
Gaye Tayler